Vionnet
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Vionnet designer Goga Ashkenazi came to fashion through her own passion for it, buying a majority stake in the historic label in 2012. For Fall/Winter 2015, she riffed on the idea of beauty and decay, spurred by a trip to the volcanoes of Iceland. The first three looks—liquid, draped gowns in icy peach and mint, harked back to the house codes of founder Madeleine Vionnet, but Ashkenazi accessed a sexier mood with skinny cut leather pant-boot hybrids, bandage tops, little fur hooded capes, and billowy thigh-high slit plissé skirts. Cool blues and crackly black, white, and red prints brought together fire and ice, but the updated Grecian looks in monochrome (namely, a hooded black gown that read Bianca Jagger at Studio 54) were the standouts.