Rick Owens SS23: Gelatinous Leather, Cher, and Boots With Hair

Today at the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens, our favorite American in Paris, showed his SS23 “EDFU” collection. Models made their way down a staircase and strutted around a towering water fountain decked out in variations of Owens-isms—his infamous grilled boots, leather jackets with devilish shoulders, and dark shades. Among the many notable attendees were Erykah Badu and Cher, who witnessed Owens’s twisted fantasy in the form of translucent leather dresses and feathered, thigh-high boots in black, red, and white. After the show, our editor-in-chief Mel Ottenberg asked Owens, Michèle Lamy, Badu, and Fecal Matter a few rapid-fire questions about skin shoes, Siouxsie and the Banshees, and gelatinous leather.—ERNESTO MACIAS

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RICK OWENS

MEL OTTENBERG: “The stars that shine, and the stars that shrink. In the face of stagnation the water runs. Before your eyes, dazzle it’s a glittering prize.” I used to play that song [“Dazzle” by Siouxsie and the Banshees] right before Rihanna tours opened as my song that made me feel like, “Let’s get these bitches on stage.” It means a lot to me.

RICK OWENS: Siouxsie before Rihanna?

OTTENBERG: Yes “Dazzle” by Siouxsie and the Banshees. I felt like “Fuck you, I’m going to make this tour happen,” after being so scared.

OWENS: See that’s why you’re you, for playing Sioux’s “Dazzle” before a Rihanna tour. That’s a recipe.

OTTENBERG: Forget about me, let’s talk about you. Oh, before I forget, Cher was at your fashion show today.

OWENS: I got to take a picture with her and I asked her: “How did you get roped into this?” And she goes, “I don’t know.”

OTTENBERG: [Laughs] Wait Cher and Michèle [Lamy] were a thing. I also met Erykah Badu. But what are we doing about clothes? Because we can talk about the amazingness of the show all day, but I want to talk to you about the clothes—and also “Dominator” by Human Resource is playing right now. 

OWENS: This is another version. 

OTTENBERG: This is a sample of “Dominator” done very well. We always bond over the music at your show. I’ll go on the record and say that once I sent Rick a text with a song and then it became the men’s January 2016—

OWENS: Well, that would happen more often if you texted me more.

OTTENBERG: I’m sorry. Noted. I want to talk to you about fashion, your fashion. Let’s go over to the board for a sec. Who is the one? The boots and accessories, you’re great at them but what’s the look that means the most to you?

OWENS: I think these [look 1], the transparent leather twisted. Did you feel that leather? It feels gummy and gelatinous, like a fruit roll up.

OTTENBERG: Oh that top, look 23, on Hannah.

OWENS: It’s kind of moist, damp. It’s challenging.

OTTENBERG: But it looks so easy. Challenging or not. I would say that there’s something in this whole draping at the end, that really twisted my arm. 

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ERYKAH BADU

OTTENBERG: All right. I’m here with the one and only, the ultimate Erykah Badu. We just met, we’re sitting on some steps. I wish you could see the outfit. What’s up? How are you?

ERYKAH BADU: Hey. Peace and love. How you feel?

OTTENBERG: I’m elated that I went to that show. I almost cried but I didn’t. How you feeling?

BADU: I’m exquisite. I feel like I experienced something I needed. Some therapy I needed. Fantastic.

OTTENBERG: Do you fuck with  Siouxsie and the Banshees? That’s why I got so emotional because of “Dazzle.”

BADU: Actually, I have never heard of Siouxsie and the Banshees.

OTTENBERG: [Laughs] They’re cool and they sing that song that was in the show. What was the therapy you needed? Was it a gown therapy or boot therapy?

BADU: It was a like-minded therapy, you know? Creativity therapy, where the object is to be as yourself as you can. In lieu of being as alike as you can.

OTTENBERG: True.

BADU: I felt like I was in their dream.

OTTENBERG: You were. I mean look at you, you’re living. Have you met Michèle?

BADU: Briefly. We been in the same places.

OTTENBERG: I won’t keep you longer. I hope y’all hang out right now because y’all are the vibe.

BADU: I hope so. I mean she’s mother to me. She’s beautiful. When I saw her I felt like, “Oh, okay that’s what it looks like to evolve beautifully.”

OTTENBERG: Yes. Totally. Well, thank you.

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MICHÈLE LAMY

OTTENBERG: I’m here with Michèle Lamy, my old friend. Michèle, great show.

MICHÈLE LAMY: Great show.

OTTENBERG: Great collection.

LAMY: Yeah, fantastique. Joyous but at the same time very strong. I like that this big fountain of rain was coming toward us. Also, completely intuitive.

OTTENBERG: It’s keeping us alive. You were in the rain and we were in the smoke, but we love it. It’s great. You’ve got to meet Erykah Badu because I was just talking to her and I said “What do you think about Michèle?” She said, “Man Michèle’s like mother. The one to know.” You’ve got to go find her, but you’re too busy with Cher right now.

LAMY: [Laughs] Help me find her.

OTTENBERG: Which is your boot? The yellow or red with fur?

LAMY: The rouge.

OTTENBERG: Okay, period. And what’s the other must-have, nastiest Michèle outfit?

LAMY: The finale looks.

OTTENBERG: Yes, all of that. Thank you!

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FECAL MATTER

OTTENBERG: Okay, We finally met. Where are we?

FECAL MATTER: We’re at the Rick show and we got completely rained on by this giant hose. Oh wait, it’s not there anymore.

OTTENBERG: You got rained on. I always say this, but this is one of my favorite Rick shows. Do you guys have any thoughts about it?

FECAL MATTER: I want everything. I don’t know how—maybe I have to rob a bank? 

OTTENBERG: Which boot are you getting?

FECAL MATTER: The feather, furry long-haired one.

OTTENBERG: Are you guys into Siouxsie and the Banshees?

FECAL MATTER: Yes, I love Siouxsie.

OTTENBERG: That song is a personal favorite of mine. What is she wearing today?

MATTER: I have my skin shoes on today.

OTTENBERG: Oh, yeah. Oh my god, I finally get to touch this skin.

MATTER: Touch them. [Laughs]

OTTENBERG: Touch these shoes, baby.