Inside the Couture Archives of Cristóbal Balenciaga

All photos courtesy of SCAD.

The Balenciaga of the moment might call to mind trendy moto bags, mutated sneakers, and Erewhon collabs, but the Parisian fashion house’s namesake couturier was a different kind of pathbreaker. Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first store in his tranquil seaside hometown of Getaria, Spain at the age of 22, naming it EISA after his mother, who was a seamstress, before fleeing to Paris during the Spanish Civil War. In 1937, he opened the first Balenciaga atelier, which occupies the original 10 Ave George V address to this day. Iconic silhouettes like the bulbous balloon dress and evergreen babydoll defined the transition from Dior’s New Look to the more freeing shapes of the ‘60s. This mid-century golden age is the focus of Cristóbal Balenciaga: Master of Tailoring at Atlanta’s SCAD FASH museum, where 30 rarely-seen archival looks and sketches from Azzedine Alaïa’s personal collection and the Balenciaga Archives are on display until June. On the heels of Demna’s recent return to couture, filled with throwback references (like the refashioned sari dresses and silent shows reminiscent of the silence of Balenciaga’s salons), it’s time for a little history lesson.

———

Printed shantung silk fitted jacket with standing collar and tailored skirt. Summer 1952.

During the post-World War II prosperity in France, Balenciaga sought to free his booming list of couture clients from the restrictive silhouettes that were popular at the time. This tailored suit featured a semi-fitted front with his popular bloused back. Keep it classy while maximizing air flow.

———

Silk gazar cocktail dress. Haute Couture Summer 1968.

Abraham textiles’ Gustave Zumsteg specially developed a silk gazar fabric for Balenciaga that became a favorite of the house for its firm, moldable quality, ideal for the sculptural shapes he was known for. And Balenciaga never forgot his roots: the flared skirts and sleeves and flower appliqués found in this dress were an ode to the flamenco dancer.

———

Evening dress in silk organza and taffeta, pearl embroidery, rhinestones and sequins. Haute Couture Summer 1963.

This hyper-ornate rhinestoned gown made its rounds among the best-dressed of Germany. Cult favorite actress Romy Schneider wore it for a Life magazine shoot on “Very Winning Europeans.” Later, it was worn by socialite and fashion icon Dolores Guiness.

———

Strapless dress and rounded cape in silk satin. Haute Couture Summer 1968.

Couture clients get what they want, and this dress-and-cape ensemble was no exception. First shown in midnight black silk gazar, a certain mystery special client requested it to be specially replicated in a softer ivory silk satin.

———

Asymmetrical tunic in gold jacquard silk, transparent rhinestones and small pearls and sequins. Haute Couture Winter 1964.

This brocaded and embellished sari-inspired dress was the unexpected source of an awkward moment on a star-studded night out in Paris. Elizabeth Taylor arrived at the famed Lido club in the flashy look, but in an ironic twist of fate, French writer and singer Annabel Buffet was seated at a neighboring table wearing the same dress.