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“I Don’t Think About Feminism”: Maria Grazia Chiuri on Dior’s New Look
Clothing, Shoes, and Accessories (worn throughout) Dior Heritage Collection, Paris. Jacket, Skirt, and Belt Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017. Tights and Socks (worn throughout) Stylist’s Own. Shoes (worn throughout) Cruise 2020.
In advance of Apple TV’s The New Look, a historical drama about the rise of Christian Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s 09 creative director, tells us why the show’s namesake silhouette, defined by a snatched waist and full skirt, mirrors the contours of the fashion industry today.
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What’s your most unexpected source of inspiration?
I don’t subscribe to the idea that inspiration comes at certain times or in certain ways. It’s amazing how little our brains need to start imagining new things.
If you could only wear one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it be?
I would keep dressing how I always do. A pair of jeans with a black or blue jumper or t-shirt.
Can you describe the ultimate Dior woman?
There is no “ultimate” Dior woman. When I work on a collection, I consider the beauty of all women.
Vest, Shirt, and Beret Autumn/Winter 2017.
Jacket, Skirt, Hat, Necklace, and Ring Cruise 2020.
Why do we need the New Look in 2024?
The New Look has become its own concept. An attitude. An approach to fashion. Dior’s New Look had a huge impact in the immediate postwar period and it breathed new life into the fashion industry. I also find that it perfectly expresses the true meaning of fashion: its ability to be rooted in its time while also evolving.
How do you see the next wave of feminists dressing?
I don’t believe in predicting trends, because I think we should be offering something that people don’t even realize they want, something produced from research with no bearing on marketing. And while I work, I don’t think about feminism, but rather about women, and about life.
What’s your go-to silhouette?
I appreciate the possibilities of the Monsieur Dior silhouette. I have worked significantly on Marc Bohan’s version, the creative director who deftly interpreted the revolution of the ’60s, an era I hold dear.
Jacket and Skirt Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947.
Vest, Shirt, and Beret Autumn/Winter 2017.
What kind of music do you listen to while you work?
I love Italian music, particularly Jovanotti. He gets the energy flowing!
Which country inspires you the most?
India is where my heart lies.
If you could dress anyone, who would it be?
I would have liked to dress Carla Lonzi. She was an influential critic of Italian art who made the bold choice to leave the art world and turn to feminism.
Headpiece and Jacket Spring/Summer Haute Couture 2019.
Jacket, Shirt, Skirt, and Tie Cruise 2019.
Why is it important to have female creative directors?
In all working environments, and particularly in the arts, women struggle to reach the top. Unfortunately, they are still chained to the preconceived notion that they must make comfortable fashion. Fashion that meets women’s needs. They are less “artistic.” It’s hard to move away from this, despite brands such as Comme des Garçons and Prada proving it wrong. Modern fashion must consider how it can be innovative in new ways. Its value must be found through diverse viewpoints. Women still tend to work a lot on the sidelines. They strive at all levels to ensure that the complex machine of the fashion industry runs smoothly. I think that they should strive to take the roles that are waiting for them.
What are you reading?
I just finished some short stories by Isabella Ducrot, the artist working on the set for the haute couture show on January 22. And I have just started The Shards by Bret Easton Ellis. It’s more than 600 pages. A nice challenge.
Who is your biggest muse?
I don’t have a muse. I find the concept outdated. I think women should be their own muses.
Jacket, Skirt, Hat, Necklace, and Ring Cruise 2020.
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Model: Merel Roggeven at Next Models.
Hair: Tosh.
Makeup: Patrick Glatthaar using Makeup Forever at Total World.
Nails: Fanny Santa Rita using Dior Vernis at Call My Agent.
Casting: Lorenzo Rotondo at Establishment New York.
Photography Assistant: Aliocha Wallon.
Fashion Assistant: Andrew Gutrov.
