Alison Roman Dishes on Resy, Air Fryers, and Erewhon

Alison Roman is not a dessert person. The acid-tongued chef and author began her career as a pastry chef, but it’s her relaxed and unpretentious recipes—she helped make anchovies a thing— that turned her into a culinary phenomenon. At her editor’s urging, Roman embraced desserts for her third book, Sweet Enough, a collection of pastry recipes baked and photographed in the deliberately messy and approachable style for which she’s become known. To mark the book’s release, Roman offered up some piping-hot takes on air fryers, Erewhon, and QR-code menus. 

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RESY 

“Useful and annoying. The app sucks. The interface makes it really challenging to switch cities. The notification function is really great, though. I love a walk-in, but New York has become impossible to walk into.” 

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SEAMLESS 

“I don’t use it except for when I’m coming home from the airport or really sick. People should be mindful about tipping more on there.” 

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SOBER CURIOUS 

“We should all be generally curious. I don’t like branded terms for anything in my life. Maybe we should just talk about having a healthier relationship with alcohol.” 

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TRIPE 

“Fantastic. My favorite way to have it is trippa alla Romana done Italian style, where it’s braised in tomato sauce with chili flakes and lots of pecorino.” 

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MARTINIS 

“50/50 with a twist and an olive.” 

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VEGANISM 

“I cook vegan often, but not on purpose. I just don’t cook with a ton of animal products, unless I’m making a steak or pork chops or I’m craving sausage. I’m not the kind of person that feels like they need to eat meat every night.” 

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WEDDING FOOD 

“Mostly bad. I have a ton of sympathy for anybody trying to cook for a large number of people at the same time. To get something that tastes good, that’s well-seasoned, that suits the purpose of whomever is choosing the menu, is near impossible.” 

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AIR FRYERS 

“Think about anything throughout the arc of history in our kitchens that has been a tool that people are excited about. They never stand the test of time. You know what does? A fucking oven.” 

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TIKTOK 

“I’ve pretty much managed to stay off it entirely. People send them to me sometimes. It’s not something I have the space for. It kind of depresses me.” 

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ASSIGNED SEATING 

“I don’t think a dinner party requires it. We’re all adults.” 

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TRADER JOE’S 

“I grew up with it, but I find the shopping experience a little harrowing, so I avoid it.” 

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BOOZY LUNCH 

“I did a super boozy lunch at Keens over the holidays in 2019 and went to the dentist afterwards while wasted. Honestly, I had a great time.” 

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EREWHON 

“Having grown up in L.A., it’s funny that it became a thing. They must be in on the joke. But I’m a fan of food and people buying it. If you’re not going to do your own homework, then you fall prey to a $17 bottle of water with an aloe leaf in it. I don’t care if you do, but it wouldn’t be me.” 

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EATING ON THE SUBWAY 

“I don’t want to see it. I don’t want to do it.” 

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SKIPPING BREAKFAST 

“Guilty as charged. The idea of eating food first thing in the morning is not that interesting to me.” 

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PRIX FIXE 

“Not for me. I like a choice.” 

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TINNED FISH 

“I love anchovies. I love sardines. I love mussels and clams and squid. A lot of people that purport to like tinned fish don’t, because there was a whole, ‘Hot girls like tinned fish’ moment. If people think it’s cool then great, because it encourages people to eat a more sustainable seafood. But it’s kind of funny how it became a thing.” 

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DINE-IN THEATERS 

“I like the option for robust snacks. I don’t know that I need chicken wings.” 

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INTERMITTENT FASTING 

“I’m dubious of any sort of diet when it’s one that doesn’t involve listening to your own body.” 

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THE COMMENTS SECTION 

“Resist the urge. Stay away. Don’t indulge.” 

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“IN” AND “OUT” LISTS 

“It’s main character syndrome. Do we keep anything to ourselves anymore?” 

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KEITH MCNALLY 

“He’s going to write a memoir, if he hasn’t already, and it’s going to be great. To me, he’s a perfect lightning rod for all the things that people claim to care about. What a wonderful niche New York celebrity. It’s been so long since we’ve had one and thank god it’s him.” 

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BALTHAZAR 

“The food is so bad, it’s too expensive, I love going there.” 

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QR-CODE MENUS 

“It breaks my heart, every step toward dehumanizing the restaurant experience, or really any experience. Even the iPads at the airport send me into a depressive spiral. Bring back paper menus.” 

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PUBLIC OPINION 

“We pay too much attention to it. It’s effectively one big comment section. Most people don’t actually have an opinion and they look to the public to have one. Try the thing. If you don’t like it don’t be like, ‘Yes, I love tinned fish.’” 

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Hair: Adam Szabo using R+Co at Frank Reps

Makeup: Ingeborg using Chanel Beauty

Photography Assistant: Victoria Loeb

Fashion Assistant: Fern Cerezo

Production Assistant: Wes Knoll